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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.